Tide or current: the wind causes a surface current of its own.Adjust your ocean route to allow 10 miles between you and any seamounts that come within 30 meters of the surface.įeatures of deep-water and shallow-water waves These wave peaks reach a height where they become unstable and, moving faster than the water below, they break forward. The wave will slow down, grow taller and become shaped like peaks. At the point where the depth of the water is one-half of the wave’s length, it begins to “feel” the bottom. shallows, reefs, continental shelves, seamounts - underwater mountain ranges) on the open ocean like Gorringe Ridge off the west coast of Portugal. Shape of the seabed: waves which have developed in deep water (water deeper than one-half of the waves length) will be severely constrained when they reach shallow water (e.g.A breaking wave is one whose base can no longer support its top, and it collapses. If the wind direction changes or meet a cross sea (waves from another direction), the sea will become “confused” (random waves appearing from unexpected angles) and might break. Wind direction: a steady wind direction will create a long swell from one direction.Fetch: the longer the distance a wave travels, the bigger it will grow.Wind duration: the longer the wind blows, the bigger the waves.Wind speed (strength): the stronger the wind, the more power it will put into the waves and the bigger they will be.There are a lot of factors which influence sea state and how uncomfortable or dangerous the waves are: Waves contain much more power and are of more concern for offshore sailors. Wind in itself does not pose an enormous threat until it reaches quite severe strength. Generally speaking, the stronger the wind, and the more time and distance the wind has to blow, the larger the waves generated. Waves are created by wind blowing across the surface of the ocean. At what size do waves get big enough to cause trouble for your boat.
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